Chuck Kuhn's Asia in Photos: Phat Diem Rock Church

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Phat Diem Rock Church

East meets West at Phat Diem Rock Church

Last updated: 8/19/2011 9:00

The Phat Diem Rock Church boasts an impressive mix of Eastern and Western styles
Time races by in our busy city lifestyles and visiting historic sites in the countryside is often something we never get around to.
I had wanted to visit Phat Diem Rock Church for a long time, and on one especially sunny afternoon, I finally took a bus going down National Road 10 headed towards the church.
From Ninh Binh Town, I traveled 28 kilometers, passing emerald rice paddies and other beautiful countryside scenery before reaching my destination.
The Phat Diem Rock Church complex covers an area of 22 hectares in Phat Diem Town, Kim Son District, in the northern province of Ninh Binh.
The Phat Diem church is referred to as the Rock Church because it is built entirely of rock. It took 24 years (1875-1899) to complete this architectural marvel. Father Tran Luc, who designed and supervised the construction, is laid to rest in a tomb in the front yard of the church, in the Phuong Dinh Building.
Over 112 years old, the Phat Diem Rock Church complex boasts a unique mix of Western and Eastern architectural styles, with many of the buildings reminiscent of Buddhist pagodas. There are no Western-style stained-glass windows, common to many churches in Vietnam.
Like most other visitors to the complex, I first stopped at a pond in front of the main church. This pond is in keeping with the traditional Eastern style, which often includes a body of water in front of the main structure.
The church gate is always open, allowing visitors to take a leisurely walk around the complex at any time. Each structure in the complex has its own unique architectural features, making for a fascinating stroll.
At the Phuong Dinh Building, there are two staircases leading to the bell tower of the church. I was free to climb the tower to witness the ringing of the bell. It is said that the bell can be heard from a dozen kilometers away.

Inside the main chapel of Phat Diem Rock Church

Walking past Phuong Dinh, I came to the main chapel, which was built in 1891. It has five doors made of rock displaying elaborate carvings in high-relief. The main church is 74 meters long, 21 meters wide and 15 meters tall. There are six rows of ironwood columns. Those in the middle two rows are 11 meters tall, have a circumference of 2.35 meters and weigh seven tons.
The side doors are always open, so visitors are free to take pictures whenever they like. The wooden columns, beams and benches create a quiet, peaceful atmosphere.
Another notable structure in the complex is the Mother’s Heart Church built in 1883, that has a length of 15.3 meters, a width of 8.5 meters and a height of six meters. The other structures in the complex are the Saint Rocco, Saint Giuse and Saint Pero churches.
It was easy for me to enjoy the stress-free atmosphere of the complex, especially on the carpet of grass in front of the Phuong Dinh Building, where visitors can relax and take pictures.
There is a souvenir shop on the small road to the left of the church. In addition to Christian-themed gifts, visitors can also find other items like hats, bamboo souvenirs and candy.
I had a chat with the owner of a shop across from the church who moved there from Hanoi about five years ago. He said there are many churches in the district, usually one in every neighborhood. He said at one time almost all the local residents were catholic, but now only about 75 percent are.
A free guide service is available and visitors are allowed to visit the church at any time, even during mass.

By Khue Viet Truong, Thanh Nien News (The story can be found in the August 19th issue of our print edition, Thanh Nien Weekly)

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“I can’t say what made me fall in love with Vietnam - that a woman’s voice can drug you; that everything is so intense. The colors, the taste, even the rain. Nothing like the filthy rain in London. They say whatever you’re looking for, you will find here. They say you come to Vietnam and you understand a lot in a few minutes, but the rest has got to be lived. The smell: that’s the first thing that hits you, promising everything in exchange for your soul. And the heat. Your shirt is straightaway a rag. You can hardly remember your name, or what you came to escape from. But at night, there’s a breeze. The river is beautiful. You could be forgiven for thinking there was no war; that the gunshots were fireworks; that only pleasure matters. A pipe of opium, or the touch of a girl who might tell you she loves you. And then, something happens, as you knew it would. And nothing can ever be the same again.”
― Graham Greene, The Quiet American

Tips on Travel to Vietnam

It's always warm in Southeast Asia apart from high mountains, so leave the heavy clothing at home. Cotton and breathable fabrics are always better than synthetics -- although cotton does wrinkle a lot when traveling! December through April is roughly the dry season in that region, although it can still rain a little. December is a good time to go in terms of temperature -- cooler than in the humid summertime. Either way, wearing more clothing (shirt sleeves and long pants) is always more respectful towards the Asian culture, especially when visiting temples and rural areas.