Thursday, January 1, 2009

Wooden hand puppets struggle to survive

While traditional puppetry is still a treasured cultural practice in the northern province of Nam Dinh, this art form may be in its final act.
Every year, when the lunar calendar comes around to January 20-22, a special collection of wood-headed puppets comes to life. The colourful hand-puppets dance behind a curtain, coupled with songs that date back centuries, helping to celebrate the spring festival at Dai Bi Pagoda, in Nam Giang
Puppet heads, 3kg each, are preserved at the Dai Bi Pagoda.Town, Nam Truc District, the northern province of Nam Dinh.
The shows have been passed down from generation to generation. Unfortunately, there are only a few people left who understand and appreciate it.
The art form is appropriately named Oi Loi or Khoi Loi, or wood-headed puppetry. While it is well-known in the region, its origins are rather mysterious.
Doan Huu Song checks a small puppet head, weighing 1kg.Doan Huu Song, 70, deputy head of the puppetry troupe of Dai Bi Pagoda, explains that the shows were originally put on for Zen Buddhist Monk Tu Dao Hanh, considered a saint, who lived during the Ly Dynasty (1009 – 1225).
Tu Dao Hanh is accredited for having initiated several kinds of puppetry, including Viet Nam’s famous water puppetry. A number of pagodas connected to his life have continued to promote the art, including the Dai Bi Pagoda in Nam Dinh Province, the Lang Pagoda in Ha Noi and Thay Pagoda in Sai Son District on the outskirts of Ha Noi.
While each form of puppetry has its own stories, when it comes to these wooden heads you may hear different legends about its origin.
One of these legends says that 12 gods of waves ignited a mass flood, hurting many people. Tu Dao Hanh managed to win over six of them, and chased the other six out to sea. Residents then honoured the monk by setting up a play of the six gods dancing on the waves.
Another legend says the six puppets are a manifestation of the six characters of an honourable man: integrity, honour, intelligence, fidelity, loyalty to parent, and goodwill.
Song says that the lyrics used in traditional performances may date the shows to the early years of the Le Dynasty (early 15th century). There are 26 songs and 32 tunes that traditionally accompany the show.
"One song praises the recovery of the imperial city and another praises the morals of the Kings and the Lords [perhaps Le Kings and the Trinh Lords]," Song explains. "Most songs praise peace and wish local officials longevity, or teach about feudal morals and family morals, promote education and talk of love between husbands and wives."
While the subjects of the songs help determine their origins, the lyrics also encompass some very ancient words, some so old that singers these days can’t understand them.
On with the show
The wood-headed puppets aren’t just any head put on a stick, as this form calls for strict characteristics of what the puppets must look like and do. Six of the puppets weigh 3kg each, and six others weigh 1kg each. Each head has a specific song and dance for perform.
The show is accompanied by traditional instruments, with two bamboo bells, one large drum, one medium drum (40cm in diameter), two cylindrical drums, one small drum, two gongs and a small belt.
The hand puppets come to life behind a cloth, with the heads bobbing about as two men sing ancient songs, folding their arms across their chests.
"One song that’s performed at the end of the programme includes many real names of saints," says Song. "This song can’t be written down, it has only been taught orally to the next leader of the puppetry troupe."
To make sure no one else can learn the lyrics of this special song, the leader of the troupe sings it while standing on his knees and mumbling, while the others play the drums so loudly that the lyrics can’t be heard clearly.
The way in which these songs are sung is only one sign of how sacredly the puppets are treated. Even to bring the puppets out of their storage box, the old men in the troupe must wear ceremonial costumes and offer incense to ask for the saint’s permission.

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