Travel: Face to Face with Ho Chi Minh

IF you're in a foreign country but only have a couple of hours to spare for leisure, why not do what most Malaysians do best — go shopping.And if you happen to find yourself in Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh city, you'll be hard-pressed not to shop given the ample opportunities to pick up beautiful local handicraft at bargain prices as I discovered recently during a short stay there.Once known as Saigon, the city retains much of its colonial past in terms of its striking architecture and beautiful parks with majestic statues, which are almost standard features everywhere.But this is also a city that's a shopper's haven given that Ho Chi Minh offers both uniquely Vietnamese souvenirs as well as regular clothing, shoes and handbags at low prices.If you're lucky enough to be staying in District 1 of the city in the Lam Son Square as I did, you'll find that many of the shops are just a few minutes' walk away, including the city's famous Ben Thanh market.One of Ho Chi Minh's most famous landmarks, Ben Thanh is said to be the oldest and largest market in the city.It's located right smack in the middle of the district, and has been in existence since the French occupation of the country.It was originally located on the shores of the Ben Nghe river by the old Gia Dinh fort. Its proximity to the fort and the river where merchants and soldiers would land gave it its name. Ben stands for pier or port in Vietnamese and Thanh means fort.From the Park Hyatt Saigon where I was staying, the market was a short ten minutes' drive by taxi, but for those who don't mind walking, you can make your way along the city's shady pavements and take in some sights along the way.This indoor market, which I was told opens as early as 6am, is both well planned and relatively spacious compared to some bazaars in other Southeast Asian countries.The building housing the market has four gates and is filled with more than 1,500 stalls. Once inside, be prepared for a hive of activity as both locals and foreigners alike source for bargains from traders, who sell everything from fabric, shoes and clothes to lacquer ware, porcelain plates and bowls, beaded handbags and shawls, dried fish and shrimp, and pickled fruit.At first glance it may seem chaotic, but with traders offering similar products huddled together, there is some semblance of order.So, if you're looking for Vietnam's famous embroidered tablecloths and bedsheets for example, you'll be able to pick and choose and compare prices from several traders.Don't be surprised if some of them greet you with a selamat pagi or apa khabar the minute they find out you're from Malaysia. This is one place where we have obviously left our mark.Bargaining is of course standard practice but as I discovered, many traders already have a price in mind for you and sometimes, no amount of cajoling will get them to lower their rate.But given that prices are at least 50 per cent cheaper than what we would pay for similar items in Kuala Lumpur, it's not difficult to walk away feeling satisfied with your purchases.Vietnamese currency can take some getting used to though, and you may find yourself fumbling a little with notes of large denominations.Converting money to ringgit can be tiresome given the multiple zeros of the Dong currency. Traders are naturally more than happy to accept the same value for their goods in US dollars.Embroidery and beadwork are certainly the hallmarks of Vietnamese handicraft and such skilled work is reflected in everything, from elegant traditional wear, the au dai, to shoes, bags and T-shirts.Many of the traders selling fabric have links to tailors and they can have your clothes ready for fitting within a day or two.But be mindful of taking pictures in the market without first seeking permission as some traders don't seem to be happy about having their stalls photographed and even go to the extend of blocking your view as you focus your camera.When politely asked for a photo to be taken, most oblige but one female trader took me by surprise when she said she charged for photographs. Needless to say, I wasn't too interested in her stall after that.By mid-afternoon, it can get really stuffy in Ben Thanh and if you've only just started your shopping, be prepared to sweat it out as it becomes extremely humid inside despite the electric fans whirring away at every stall.By about 7pm, Ben Thanh closes for the day but the excitement doesn't end for those looking for a bargain: some traders set up stalls on the streets outside the market, offering yet another shopping experience for the eager tourist.* The writer was in Ho Chi Minh for the launch of the Nokia Supernova range of phones.