The 19-12 (December 19) Market is the smallest market in Hanoi, but it is a favorite for foreigners.
It used to be called Hell Market because many people killed during the war with the French colonists in 1946-47 were buried there.
Its name was changed to 19-12 Market in 1986, when the bodies of the war victims were exhumed and relocated.
On 19-12 Street, the market runs between Ly Thuong Kiet and Hai Ba Trung streets.
It is commonly called the “Market for Foreigners” even though it doesn’t sell big brand names or use US currency.
The attraction is the range of ingredients on display.
For instance there is one whole area devoted to bananas, more varieties than anyone could imagine.
At Lien Hoa and Ly Hoa kiosks, customers can find special ingredients from Da Lat or Sa Pa like asparagus, carrots and violet lettuce.
For cake makers there are gelatine leaves, almonds and different kinds of flour and spices.
Stalls also sell canned foods like salmon and frozen foods.
About 10 shops sell dog meat which comes from Cao Ha Village in Ha Tay Province’s Hoai Duc’s District.
From 500 kilograms to a ton of dog meat is sold every day.
The owner of Shop No.7 says, “Not only locals, but many Koreans are dog meat lovers too. They like it. Many are regular customers at our shop and most Koreans like the Vietnamese style of cooking the meat. They say the Vietnamese make seven dishes from dog, so they can choose.”
Helpful stall holders Hai, from the Hoa Sua vocational school, often takes his students to browse in the market to teach them about Vietnamese culture and food.
They rarely buy anything.
“Let them look as much as they like,” The Hoan Ngoc kiosk owner, Ngoc, says to him when he asks if she minds them looking without buying.
Ngoc said she was proud to help international friends learn about Vietnamese cooking.
“Just look around and you can see that no other market in Hanoi has as many foreign visitors as the 19-12 Market,” Ngoc says.
“The market is small, but there’s a wide range. That’s why tourists like visiting this place, and foreigners working in Hanoi like the market because they can learn about Vietnamese culture while they shop for western food. That’s two in one. Everyone likes it.”
The sellers at the market are familiar with foreigners.
They talk about this or that, point to vegetables, turn over some meat or even take a net to catch a fish or a shrimp.
“Foreigners usually go around the market for an hour. We show them everything in detail, especially specialties of Hanoi and Vietnam,” Hai said.
“When showing them vegetables, for example, we pick a leaf and give it to them so they can put it to their nose to smell it. When introducing a fruit, we cut off a piece and give it to them to taste.
“The sellers always smile and serve the customers in a professional way. That’s why foreigners love to visit this market,” she says.
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi has been showing their guests to the 19-12 Market for years.
Jennifer Coger, who is visiting from America says, “Markets in Hanoi are small, not like big shopping centers and supermarkets in foreign countries.”
For other people like Caleb and Melissa Rudd from Tokyo, an hour is not enough to go around.
“This is the first time I have come to a market in Hanoi. I find it very special.”
“We can ride our bikes and motorbikes in the market. The food is wonderful – number one! Everything is fresh, from meat, fish, vegetables and especially seafood,” Caleb says.
The range of different leafy aromatic vegetables is what amazes Melissa.
They are part of the reason Vietnamese dishes are so special
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