Saturday, February 16, 2008

If you’re craving dim sum past noon...


Dim sum may traditionally be brunch food, but the Chinese delicacies are served all day, every day at Huy Long Vien in HCMCity. Anh Thu diverges from her favourite Chinatown eateries to check it out.
Huy Long Vien is a large, open-air restaurant in District 1 with trees all around, and offers Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cuisine.
Uniquely among restaurants in HCM City, it serves dim sum or yum tsa for dinner (the Chinese dumpling is usually served for breakfast).
While in some countries like Australia and New Zealand, it is often known as yum tsa, it is always dim sum in Viet Nam, and is a big draw card for Vietnamese.
It is made in a variety of ways and comes in one dazzling array after another, both steamed and fried.
Most restaurants offer at least 20 varieties, and often over 100.
Usually served in small bamboo pots, menu offerings range from ordinary siu mai (steamed dumpling) to specialities made with rare materials like shark's fin.
Huy Long Vien offers 29 different types, all priced from VND22,000-30,000. On Saturday and Sunday mornings it is cut-rate – just VND16,000.
For dim sum, I usually go to some small Chinese-run restaurant in Chinatown where the service is poor and the food terrific.
Recently, I broke this rule to try dim sum at Huy Long Vien.
Down to business
I started with the usual steamed chicken feet with black bean sauce which cost VND22,000.
The chicken is cooked in a kind of bean sauce until soft as butter, making it easy to polish off even the skin and bones. Served hot in a small white bowl, it was fragrant.
I then got siu mai steamed dumplings. The dish, which cost VND28,000, is cooked with pork and shrimp, and had four dumplings placed look like a flower on a plate.
I then ordered for a glutinous rice (VND25,000) dish cooked with fired pork, Chinese sausage, and spring onion in lotus leaf. All its ingredients are well done or smoked.
A fried turnip cake set me back VND25,000. Made of flour and small pieces of turnip, it is first steamed and then baked. Despite the fact I ate it with soy sauce, it was sweetish rather than salty.
I rounded off the meal with a special dessert, sweetened dumplings with sesame (VND22,000). The dumplings are first steamed before being coated in flour and fried briefly.
The trademark feature of dim sum dishes is that they are made from cheap, simple materials but cooked with sophistication, and have unusual but delicious flavours.
They are always washed down with hot tea. Huy Long Vien serves tea for free and to ask for a refill all you have to do is tap your forefinger on the table. The waiter materialises immediately with a jar of the brew.
Besides dim sum, the restaurant is also famous for its Peking roast duck which costs over VND300,000.
Its bulging menu has a further 200 Chinese and Vietnamese dishes priced from VND30,000 to over

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